A festive northern Andean plate of crisp fried cuy with a rich potato ajiaco. Ají panca, ají amarillo, and fresh cheese give the stew its depth, while rice and a sharp onion-and-rocoto salsa complete the traditional serving. Hearty, hot, and the kind of dish that turns lunch into an occasion.
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If the cuy comes whole, cut it into 4 portions and pat it thoroughly dry. Rub it with a little over one third of the ground garlic and two fifths of the salt, coating the skin and the areas around the joints especially well; set it aside while you prepare the sides.
Place the rice in a medium pot with a little over half of the water. Bring to a boil, cover, and cook over low heat for 15 minutes, until the liquid is absorbed and the grains are tender; turn off the heat and leave it covered for 5 minutes to finish steaming.
While the rice cooks, heat a small portion of the oil in a large pot. Cook a little under half of the onion with the remaining garlic, ají panca paste, ají amarillo, oregano, and half of the remaining salt for 6 to 7 minutes, until the onion is very soft and the sofrito looks dark, glossy, and no longer smells raw. Add the yellow potatoes in medium pieces and the remaining water; cover and cook for 15 to 18 minutes, until the potatoes are fully tender and beginning to break around the edges. Crush roughly one third against the side of the pot, fold in the crumbled fresh cheese, and cook for another 2 minutes, until the ajiaco is creamy while still showing distinct pieces of potato.
Slice the remaining onion into thin feathers and the rocoto into small strips. Toss them with the lime juice and the remaining salt for 30 seconds, just until the onion looks glossy and evenly dressed; the salsa should stay fresh, tangy, and crisp.
Heat the remaining oil in a wide skillet to 165 to 175°C. Fry the cuy portions without crowding them for 14 to 18 minutes total, turning carefully to brown several sides, until the skin is deeply golden and crisp and the thickest part reaches 74°C, keeping the thermometer away from the bone. Drain on paper towels for just 1 minute and serve immediately with the ajiaco, rice, and onion salsa, keeping the salsa to the side so the skin stays crisp. And that's it—crisp cuy, creamy potatoes, and a complete northern-style plate.
