A Cajamarca market breakfast where white potatoes turn brick-red and pork develops a proper crust. The aderezo catches lightly on the pan and comes back deeply toasted, almost smoky, while fresh mint cuts through the richness at the very end. Serve it steaming and it becomes obvious why street stalls start selling it while the day is barely awake.
Turn what you find into an experience you can actually bring to your kitchen.
Peel the white potatoes and cut them into large 3 cm pieces. Place them in a pot with nine tenths of the water and one quarter of the salt; simmer for 15 to 18 minutes, until tender in the center while the corners still hold their shape. Reserve a little cooking water before draining. Let the potatoes steam-dry for 4 minutes, then lightly crush a few edges with the spoon; do not turn them into mash.
Cut the pork belly into small pieces, keeping both meat and fat on each one. Place it in a wide skillet with half of the remaining water, another quarter of the salt, and just under one third of the lard. Cook over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until the water is gone and the pork begins frying in its own rendered fat. Continue for another 6 to 8 minutes, stirring only occasionally, until it develops dark brown surfaces and a firm crust. Remove the pork and leave the rendered fat and browned bits in the skillet.
Lower the heat to medium and add the remaining lard. Stir in the ground garlic, ají panca paste, turmeric, and the remaining salt. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, scraping and mixing with the pork fond, until the aderezo shifts from bright red to deep brick red and leaves a toasted film on the skillet. Add the remaining reserved water and scrape the bottom for 30 seconds; the aroma should become deep, roasted, and faintly smoky, never burnt.
Add the drained potatoes to the aderezo and fold gently until completely coated. Spread them across the skillet and leave them undisturbed for 2 to 3 minutes, until some edges catch and form red-golden crusty patches; scrape up those toasted bits with the spatula, fold the potatoes over themselves, and repeat for 2 more minutes. The mixture should remain rustic, with some pieces intact and others lightly broken, never wet like a stew.
Return the pork to the skillet and toss for 1 minute, just long enough to heat it without softening the crust. Turn off the heat and add the scallions, chopped mint, and dried oregano rubbed between your fingers. Serve immediately while the potatoes are still steaming and carrying toasted patches. And that is it—if the first aroma is hot skillet, pork, and mint, you are getting dangerously close to a Cajamarca street stall 😌
