Savory northern Peruvian humitas made with fresh corn, a mild ají amarillo sofrito, and pork fat for richness. Fresh cheese hides in the center while the corn husks lend their unmistakable steamed-corn aroma. A warm, comforting breakfast parcel made to be opened while still steaming.

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Choose 16 broad, intact corn husks, rinse them, and blanch them in boiling water for 2 minutes, until they are flexible enough to fold without splitting. Drain and lightly dry them; reserve a few thin husk strips or have kitchen twine ready for tying the humitas.
Melt the pork fat in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, until very soft and translucent; add the garlic, ají amarillo, and two fifths of the salt and cook for another 2 minutes, until the chili no longer smells raw but has not browned. Remove from the heat.
Process the fresh corn in batches until it becomes a thick paste with a fine texture, but not a completely liquid purée. Mix it with the sofrito and remaining salt and cook over medium-low heat for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring constantly, until the mixture is glossy and thick and a spoon drawn through it leaves a groove that closes slowly. Remove from the heat and cool for 5 minutes.
Cross 2 corn husks for each humita. Spoon some corn mixture into the center, place a baton of fresh cheese on top, and cover with a little more mixture. Fold the husks into a secure parcel and tie with kitchen twine, without squeezing too tightly: the filling needs a little room to expand as it steams. Repeat to make 8 humitas.
Add the water to a large pot fitted with a steamer and bring it to a boil. Arrange the humitas without packing them tightly, cover, and steam for 35 to 40 minutes, maintaining steady steam and making sure the pot does not run dry. They are ready when the husks look more opaque and yellowed, the filling feels firm under gentle pressure, and it releases from the husk without appearing pasty. Turn off the heat and rest for 5 minutes before opening. And that's it—husk outside, cheese inside, fresh corn in charge.