An Arequipeño rocoto sauce made to go with almost anything. Fiercely spicy, rustic, and fragrant with huacatay and paico, it is ground coarse rather than blended silky-smooth. One spoonful brings the character of a picantería straight to the table.
Open the rocotos, remove the seeds and thick inner ribs, and cut them into strips. Quarter the red onion, crush the garlic, and strip the huacatay and paico leaves from any tough stems.
Heat three quarters of the oil in the skillet over medium heat. Cook the garlic for 1 minute, until fragrant and lightly golden without turning dark; then add the red onion, rocoto, and three quarters of the salt. Cook for 6 to 7 minutes, stirring often, until the onion is soft and the rocoto has lost its raw firmness, looks glossy, and shows a few browned edges.
Turn what you find into an experience you can actually bring to your kitchen.
Transfer the sautéed mixture to the blender and add the huacatay, paico, remaining oil, and remaining salt. Pulse for 15 to 25 seconds, stopping once to scrape down the sides, until you have a thick, moist, rustic-ground sauce with small visible pieces; do not blend it silky-smooth. Return it to the still-hot skillet and cook for 1 to 2 minutes over medium-low heat, stirring, until a spoon drawn through the sauce leaves a trail that closes slowly. That’s it! It should hit with real heat, smell distinctly of huacatay, and feel like picantería food rather than a creamy dip.
