A golden ring of street fairs and picaroneras, inseparable from Peru's sweet memory. Sweet potato and squash give the center a light, springy crumb beneath a crisp shell, while warm chancaca syrup brings deep spice. The real challenge is not shaping the ring—it is deciding who gets the last one.
Turn what you find into an experience you can actually bring to your kitchen.
Peel the sweet potato and squash, cut them into pieces, and cook them with part of the water for 20 to 25 minutes, until soft enough to collapse when pressed. Drain while reserving the cooking liquid, pass both through a potato ricer while still hot, and let the purée release steam until warm with no pooled water.
When the cooking liquid is warm, mix part of it with the yeast and sugar and wait 5 to 8 minutes, until foamy. Add it to the purée with the flour, anise seeds, and salt; work in the rest of this portion of water gradually and beat the dough for 8 to 10 minutes, until very sticky, elastic, and forming strands when lifted, rather than behaving like firm bread dough.
Cover the bowl and let the dough ferment in a warm place for 60 to 75 minutes, until visibly expanded, full of bubbles, and jiggly when the bowl is moved. Do not expect a rigid bread-style rise: the right sign is an aerated dough that still has elasticity.
While the dough ferments, place the chancaca in a saucepan with another portion of the water, cinnamon, cloves, orange peel, and fig leaf. Cook over medium-low heat for 20 to 25 minutes, until the chancaca dissolves and the syrup falls from a spoon in a continuous, thick stream while still flowing easily. Strain and keep warm; it will thicken slightly as it cools.
Heat the oil in a deep pot to 170 to 175°C / 338 to 347°F and keep a bowl with the final portion of water nearby for wetting your hand. Take a portion of dough with damp fingers, open a generous hole in the center, and carefully slide it into the oil. Fry in batches for 2 to 3 minutes total, turning the rings until well puffed, deeply golden, and crisp outside; keep the oil in that range so the center cooks through without the dough absorbing excess fat.
Let the picarones drain for just a few seconds and serve them while still hot, with warm chancaca syrup poured over or alongside. A proper ring should crack lightly at the first bite and give way to an airy, soft, slightly springy center. And that’s it—keep the syrup close and do not make plans for the last one; it probably will not survive the round.
